西汉贵族女性服饰的演变与发展研究艺术设计(服装设计与管理专业)学生姓名:吴黎丽指导教师:陈德志摘要汉代服饰在经过了近四百年时间的演变与发展后,通过不同的政治、经济、文化的影响后,不同时期所呈现出的具体表现特征是不尽相同的,但总体上呈现出恢弘、大气的“本质美”。它的整体发展过程并不是一直都很平稳,由于每一阶段统治者所采取的统治政策的变革,所以在这一时期,相对稳定的状态和会发生转折和突变的状态并存。本文将以西汉为例,西汉早期在先秦楚服和秦代服饰的影响下,统治者取其精华、去其糟粕,将不同的民族、不同的地域服饰文化进行了整理完善,形成了西汉独具特色的服饰文化体系。这一体系的形成使西汉服饰进入了一段相对平稳的时期,也逐步融合和形成了民族间的整体文化。其后,伴随着政治、经济、文化的不断发展,西汉服饰也随之发生了或大或小的变化,不断被丰富和完善。到了西汉晚期,在某些特定的历史事件的推动下,服饰也随之发生了质的飞跃与突变。而本文就汉代整体女性服饰特征出发,意在重点研究西汉时期贵族女性服饰的演变与发展,以上升至对那一时期人们的审美文化特质的研究。关键词西汉;贵族;女性服饰;演变与发展;审美TheevolutionofthearistocraticwomenofthewesternhandynastyclothingresearchanddevelopmentArtanddesign(fashiondesignandmanagement)Student'sname:Wuliliteachers:ChendezhiAbstract:hanclothingafternearlyfourhundredyearsofevolutionanddevelopment,throughtheinfluenceofdifferentpolitical,economic,cultural,indifferentperiodshowsthecharacteristicsofspecificperformanceisnotthesame,butonthewhole,showingamagnificent,theessenceof"beauty"oftheatmosphere.Itsoveralldevelopmentisnotalwaysverysmooth,becausetherulersadoptedbyeachphaseoftherulingpolicychanges,soduringthisperiod,arelativelystablestateandturnandmutation.Thispaper,takinganexampleofthewesternhandynasty,earlywesternhandynastyinthepre-qinperiodundertheinfluenceofchuandqindynastycostume,ruler,taketheessence,discardthedross,differentnationalities,differentregionalcultureanddressisperfect,formedauniquecostumecultureofthewesternhandynastysystem.Theformationofthissystemmakesthewesternhandynastyclothingenteredaperiodofrelativelystable,alsograduallymergeandformedbetweenthenationalcultureasawhole.Behind,alongwiththecontinuousdevelopmentofpolitics,economyandculture,thewesternhandynastyclothinghasbeenchangedorbigorsmall,hasbeenrichandperfect.Inthelatewesternhandynasty,undertheimpetusofthespecifichistoricalevents,clothingisaqualitativeleapandmutationaccordingly.Andthewholefemaleclothingcharacteristicsinthispaper,thehandynasty,isintendedtofocusontheevolutionanddevelopmentofwesternhandynastyaristocraticwomendress,roseabovefortheperiodofpeople'saestheticculturetraitofsummary.Keywords:thewesternhandynasty;Noble;Womendress;Theevolutionanddevelopment;aesthetic目录1引言..............................................................42历史背景..........................................................52.1汉代对先秦楚服的继承和发展......................................52.2汉承秦后,多因其旧..............................................52.3道家儒学流派的影响..............................................63西汉女性服饰简介..................................................73.1曲裾深衣、直裾深衣..............................................73.2女性发式........................................................74西汉贵族女性服饰的演变规律........................................94.1西汉贵族女性服饰的演变规律......................................94.2西汉贵族女性发式的演变规律............................