织物外观平整度测定方法用棉织物的适用性评价郑苗沈红影徐洁丁雪梅吴雄英摘要：織物洗后外观平整度是评价经洗涤、烘干、熨烫后服装外观质量的重要指标，其客观测定方法是多年来的研究热点，然而在洗涤、烘干、熨烫条件下，适用于测定织物洗后外观平整度预期用途的织物尚未确定。文章选择半漂（无抗皱整理）和免烫抗皱两种纯棉织物，经不同的洗涤程序洗涤、晾干后，依据AATCC124织物洗后外观平整度评价方法主观评级，评价两种织物的灵敏度;再将半漂纯棉织物经不同的洗涤和烘干程序处理，依据AATCC124主观评级，判断其精密度。结果表明，半漂纯棉织物在95%置信水平时，各组均值差的显著性值小于0.05;同一测试程序下，10块织物洗后外观平整度相对标准偏差小于10%，表明半漂纯棉织物具有足够的灵敏度及精密度，可用于测定织物洗后外观平整度的预期用途。关键词：织物洗后外观平整度;客观评价;100%棉织物;精密度;灵敏度：TS101.923文献标志码：A：10017003（2020）10002405引用页码：101105DOI：10.3969/j.issn.10017003.2020.10.005（篇序）ApplicabilityevaluationonfabricappearancesmoothnesstestmethodforcottonfabricsZHENGMiao1a，SHENHongying1a，XUJie1a，DINGXuemei1，2，WUXiongying1，3（1a.FashionandArtDesignInstitute;1b.KeyLaboratoryofClothingDesignandTechnology，MinistryofEducation，DonghuaUniversity，Shanghai200051，China;2.ShanghaiInternationalInstituteofDesign&Innovation，Shanghai200080，China;3.ShanghaiCustoms，Shanghai200135，China）Abstract：Fabricappearancesmoothnessafterwashingisanimportantindexforevaluatingtheappearancequalityofclothingafterwashing，drying，andironing.Theobjectiveevaluationmethodhasbeenaresearchhotspotformanyyears.However，undertheconditionsofwashing，drying，andironing，thefabricapplicabletodeterminingfabricsmoothnessappearanceafterwashinghasnotbeendetermined.Therefore，twopurecottonfabrics（semibleachedfabricwithoutcreaseresistantfinishing，andnonironinganticreasefabric）werechoseninthisstudy.Afterwashingandairingwithdifferentwashingprocedures，thesensitivityofthetwofabricswasevaluatedaccordingtoAATCC124fabricsmoothnessappearanceafterrepeatedlaunderingsubjectiverating.Then，semibleachedpurecottonfabricwastreatedbydifferentwashinganddryingprocedures，anditsprecisionwasevaluatedaccordingtoAATCC124subjectiverating.Theresultsshowedthatthesignificanceofmeanvaluedifferenceineachgroupwaslessthan0.05whenthesemibleachedpurecottonfabricwasat95%confidencelevel.Underthesametestprocedures，therelativestandarddeviationofappearancesmoothnessof10fabricsafterwashingwaslessthan10%，indicatingthatthesemibleachedpurecottonfabrichassufficientsensitivityandprecisionandhencecanbeusedtodeterminetheintendeduseofthesmoothnessappearanceofthefabricafterwashing.Keywords：fabricappearancesmoothnessafterwashing;objectiveevaluation;100%cottonfabric;precision;sensitivity-全文完-